our magical, mystical desert tour


Sunset over Saguaro National Park, Feb 2023

We recently spent a week in Tucson, AZ with family. To say that it surpassed expectations is an understatement. Early February is a wonderful time to visit and to escape our New England winter. Tucson weather was warm, in the low 70’s, and dry (take moisturizer if you go!)

As super foodies and food truck addicts, we were in heaven, feasting on some of the most flavorful and authentic Mexican food ever. But it was the desert that really captivated our souls.

lessons from the saguaro

While I could never live in the desert climate, it was fascinating to visit and held so many lessons for this intrepid gardener and lover of the Natural World. The level of biodiversity was truly shocking to me. Discovering the diversity of plant and animal life and their interdependence was supremely eye-opening. It’s amazing what one can see if the eyes are heart are open.

Calliandra eriophylla or ‘Fairy Duster’ bush with saguaro in background

We traveled up, down and through many different mountain ranges and observed fantastic and extreme changes in plant life. The most fascinating and hauntingly beautiful species for my money were the saguaro cacti. They are literally EVERYWHERE at lower elevations. We toured the Saguaro National Park and the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum and learned about the saguaro (pronounced sa-wah-ro) life cycle and the dozens of native species that orchestrate the delicate ecological balance of the desert.

Giant saguaro, probably close to 200 years of age

no two are alike

The largest cactus species in the US and native ONLY to the Sonoran desert, the saguaro does so much more than just ‘stand there’ with its arms held out and up for 200 years. It is the desert’s largest ‘Keystone’ plant and the equivalent of our native oak tree in terms of the wildlife it supports over its lifetime and even beyond death.

saguaro fun facts

Each one is unique and many possess a special ‘human-like’ character. I found myself expecting them to start walking or talking or even dancing!! (guess I’ve seen too many cacti cartoons!)

In the desert, millions of saguaros hold center stage, dominating the landscape, with each producing millions more seeds and seedlings. Animals trample many seedlings, but they also help disperse the saguaro seed, and most of those that grow and survive do so in the shadow of the native paloverde tree. The beautiful, largely leafless paloverde sports bright green bark and acts as a ‘nurse plant’ providing protection from animal and flood disturbance. The small cactus grows ever so slowly under its sheltering canopy and the tree ultimately dies as the cactus reaches full maturity and is able to survive on its own. We were amazed to learn how slowly the saguaro grows and how OLD many of the desert giants are:

Saguaro emerge along native paloverde ‘nurse plant’ trees

  • at 5-10 years, the cactus is one inch tall

  • at 35-70 years, the cactus is six feet tall

  • at 50-100 years, the saguaro will develop branching ‘arms’

  • saguaros can live to be 200+ years of age!

native host plant

The saguaro not only rely on the paloverde tree to survive and thrive, each cactus develops a complex symbiotic relationship with dozens of species of wildlife throughout its long life:

Javelina rest in the shade

Saguaro cactus supports wildlife even after its own death

  • native Gila woodpeckers and other birds excavate holes in the cactus, creating nest cavities in which to rear their young. The saguaro responds by developing a hard lining around the nests. When the saguaro dies and decomposes the nest shells (‘boots’) remain and are collected by native Americans to use for food storage.

  • native javelina have evolved with the ability to feed on the saguaro’s spiny stems, flowers and fruits.

  • native cactus wrens build their nests on saguaro and other cactus plants, helping to disperse their seeds

  • native bees, bats and hummingbirds feast upon its floral nectar in spring.

  • native American people harvest its fruit and make preserves.

  • after the cactus’ death, insects, snakes and rodents move in, finding shelter and sustenance for years.

a fragile ecosystem

Calliandra blooms in early February

The desert plants and wildlife have evolved to adapt to supremely dry and arid conditions, and while they have have achieved a perfectly balanced ecosystem, they are encircled by ever expanding human encroachment. Tucson’s urban sprawl is significant and growing every year.

Natural water sources have been severely depleted and evidence of habitat destruction abounds. I died a little bit each time we passed an abandoned strip mall and acres upon acres of empty concrete parking lots. And ‘in town’ there is plenty of evidence of non-native plant life (just like here in New England).

visit now, but Watch out for the jumping chollas!

Dave is ‘attacked’ by a jumping cholla - ouch!

If you love Mexican food and southwest culture, I highly recommend you consider Tucson and the Sonoran desert for a future family fun trip. If you go, however, watch out for the jumping chollas (pronounced ‘choy-as’). This frequently seen cactus species in the Sonoran desert is the Cylindropuntia fulgida. It’s called ‘jumping’ because it easily detaches pieces of itself to animals (and people!) who get too close to increase its reproduction potential. Unsuspecting tourists (like us) learn the hard way not to get too close to them or else this happens! This was just another fun experience and memory of our week in Tucson. We will never take another cholla or saguaro for granted again.
Learn more about the incredible saguaro here.

if you go, take my advice!

Do yourself a favor and check out Cat Mountain Lodge and Roadside Inn, just a few miles before the entrance to Saguaro National Park. It was probably the most unique and interesting place we’ve ever stayed in the lower 48. Our rooms were impeccably furnished with the most amazing southwestern decor and the breakfast the cafe was outstanding. Everywhere you look, there is incredible sculpture and art work honoring Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

Self-described as an ‘eco-friendly’ B&B, I love that the inn was built by repurposing an old abandoned building. The grounds feature only native, waterwise plants and meandering paths to explore and relax. Only ten minutes outside of ‘downtown’ Tucson and on the same road as the park and museum entrance, its location is perfect. We would definitely go back.